NYC, Gramercy Park. The building dates from 1851 and housed the Portman Hotel where downstairs on the ground floor a "grog and grocery store" was established in 1864, the first drinking establishment. It became "Pete's Tavern" in 1922 after the establishment was purchased by Peter D'Belles. The 40 foot rosewood bar, bar back, tin ceiling, tile floor, booths, and cabinets above are all original from 1864. It was in the second booth that William Sydney Porter (pen name O. Henry) is said to have written the Gift of The Magi" in 1903. And in the booth next to it Ludwig Bemelmans is said to have written the children's book "Madeline" (1939).

Due to it's proximity to Tammany Hall during the 1920s and 1930s, the politicians turned a blind eye to the sale of alcohol at Pete's. It was disguised as a florist, adorned with fresh flowers. Patrons in the know would give a password and be escorted through a refrigerator door into the bar. Their outdoor cafe is one of the oldest in NYC, dating back to the 1950s when the European tradition of dining "al fresco" became popular.

The bartender Jim showed me a spot on the bar where a patron had sat for years scratching with his finger, resulting in a deep depression in the bar. He also told me the story of on old mirror that had been hidden by boards until the turn of the century. When the workmen removed the boards they saw a ghost-like face of a woman in the mirror. Finally, he said back in the day Jimmy Fallon was a regular and one night fell down the stairs leading to the bathroom.

My beer of choice was a Pete's Craft IPA, brewed by a small brewery in Brooklyn.